Burberry Autumn/Winter 2019 (AF19), Riccardo Tisci's debut collection for the iconic British house, marked a significant turning point in the brand's history. Stepping into the role of Chief Creative Officer, Tisci, renowned for his dramatic and often provocative designs at Givenchy, inherited a legacy steeped in tradition yet yearning for a contemporary edge. AF19 was his bold attempt to reconcile these seemingly disparate elements, a fusion of Burberry's heritage with Tisci's signature gothic romanticism, resulting in a collection that sparked considerable debate and ultimately reshaped the brand's aesthetic direction.
The collection, unveiled during London Fashion Week, was a spectacle. The setting itself was a testament to Tisci's vision: a minimalist, industrial space transformed into a powerful stage for his designs. Gone were the overtly romanticized presentations of previous seasons; instead, Tisci opted for a stark, almost austere backdrop that allowed the clothes to speak for themselves. This deliberate shift in presentation reflected the core philosophy behind AF19: a reimagining of Burberry's identity, stripping away layers of accumulated interpretation to reveal a more raw, authentic core.
Central to the collection was a reimagining of the Burberry check. While the iconic pattern remained, Tisci deconstructed and reassembled it, employing it in unexpected ways. The classic beige, red, and black motif was recoloured, appearing in vibrant hues and bold, graphic prints. It was applied to everything from oversized trench coats—a Burberry staple—to sleek, tailored suits and even more casual streetwear pieces. This manipulation of the check wasn't merely a stylistic flourish; it symbolized Tisci's intention to modernize a cherished symbol, injecting it with a new energy and relevance for a contemporary audience.
The silhouettes themselves were a compelling blend of sharp tailoring and relaxed, almost rebellious streetwear influences. Tisci juxtaposed structured blazers and impeccably cut trousers with oversized hoodies, graphic tees, and chunky sneakers. This fusion reflected a broader shift in the fashion landscape, where the lines between high fashion and streetwear were becoming increasingly blurred. The collection showcased Tisci's understanding of this evolving aesthetic, creating pieces that could seamlessly transition from the runway to the street, appealing to a diverse range of consumers.
One of the most striking aspects of AF19 was its exploration of duality. The collection presented a compelling juxtaposition of masculine and feminine elements, often within the same garment. Flowing, almost ethereal dresses were paired with sharply tailored jackets, while menswear pieces incorporated delicate lace or soft, flowing fabrics. This ambiguity challenged traditional gender norms, reflecting a growing awareness and acceptance of fluidity within the fashion world. Tisci's approach wasn't about overtly pushing boundaries; rather, it was a subtle subversion of expectations, a quiet assertion of individuality and self-expression.
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